NV4232E-16P-EI Alarm Block Pinout

[Revo2Maxx]

Yeah so 720ma isn't going to hurt the system to much.. I just setup my test area on my 4216-E1 with a older 2amp style light for a car, I used in a video some time ago while dealing with how much current the Doorbell draw.. I only used 1 of the bulbs in this test tonight and the current draw it pulled was 1.85amps. I have it setup to trip on a tripwire out front but also have a panic button setup so I can test at will. With that light bulb that one would use on a car. Same type but newer style to the 1157 with Running light and the brighter element for brakes. I ran on the higher brake one and the NVR had no issue with the ground side going into the NC and out the C when triggered it lights the bulb no issue.

So powering your 720ma load will be no problem for the NVR without external relay being needed.

I did look at your Video that you had the link to, 1 thing I would do if you were to use that, I would remove the 12/24v switch and put in a jumper so the device can't be taking out of 12v mode for your setup. This way someone don't disable the system by flipping the switch.. Not sure how much they cost but if not to costly seems like a nice little relay board that can deal with 5amps.

[katienelson71753]

I can't argue with the part about disabling the switch and concerns over but man if they're already inside the house!! The only other way to prevent that would be to put the entire NVR into a metal box with key lock designed specifically for NVR's. That relay I found one on amazon for $10.00 but the images are sloppy and I can't even tell it has the dipswitch. It may be a cheapo knockoff.

In my case, I have a 2nd panic button. It's a siren with remote. It has a clip I can hook around my belt loop and keep with me. It's inside the house attic not outside where someone might attempt to disable it. It will echo loudly!! It's on a 12v CCTV battery backup and can last for over 12 hours. I will probably put my NVR's alarm block 12v power source on a backup too. On a backup even without a UPS APC backup for the NVR ....in event of power failure...I could still potentially use the panic button from NVR Alarm Block GND and 1.

[katienelson71753]

You gonna fry your relay if it's rated at 1 amp and you're almost at 2!! I know sometimes we may get away with it...but I've seen what can happen when you put too much current through a device or pull too much current. Oh man dude I seen wires catch fire on my kitchen floor.

[katienelson71753]

So even if we only have one NO port for our alarms....we do have a 12v trigger.....it's possible we can feed that into a relay and potentially provide any additional power needed....I paid almost $600 for my NVR ...It still love it and would buy it again!!

Zener diodes can be used to prevent power flowing backwards on a line set at a specific voltage in our case 12v. Don't know that I would because they can break down but it's possible to use the 12v trigger to power on 24v exterior lights.

[katienelson71753]

A few ideas that crossed my mind Revo,
First though I would need to know for sure that CTRL and P was designed to work in this manner as an NC alarm out port?
A device that is always 12v on.....but when triggered turns off....what could you do with this....

(1) Use it inside a box with a 12v puck light and a photo sensor connected into an external device and power source. When the photo sensor doesn't detect the light it triggers a separate device.

(2) A locking mechanism on a vertical metal box that's lid swings straight up but is held in place by an always on 12v.....when triggered the lock is turned off and the lid flies open to reveal a 5 ft honeycomb wall of red wasp!!

(3) A locking mechanism on the fence gate for your dog yard where you keep a rot waller / pitbull / doberman pincher!!

[Revo2Maxx]

So about the 12v device current I am not sure that the numbers are really as they are stated. I mean they are talking about 30v at 2amps and 125v at 1amp and if we did the math of both of them they would be not the same. So the math on the 30vdc is = to 60w and well 1 amp of 125v is easy 125w, So in theory again using the math of I = P / V that would give us about 5amps on the relay for 12v.. So while I might be wrong, seeing I am using the lower 60w value to find my switches logical capacity so I = 60w / 12v is 5amps..

So I am clear, I am not using the 12v from the NVR, This is the 12v power supply that I am using with V+ going to the Light, and V- going to the NVR NC and C back to the light.

So I am not sure if you know what a relay is or have ever taken one apart? Most people are not into things that I am lol.. So in a Relay the contacts of a quality relay would have some high quality ends to keep the relay going at rated values over extended times. In this case with the relay able to work with 125vac and 30vdc my guess is it would have one of these type contacts. Silver Alloy, Silver Tin Oxide, or maybe even Silver Cadmium Oxide. and the last is most often found in relays for switching both AC/DC loads. Yet it might be even Silver Nickel but it is hard to say..

For a moment I was thinking I would take one of my other devices apart and look at the rated Relays if they are posted on the little case as they are most times, then thought wait that wouldn't matter because they are different companies one might have a lower quality relay then the ones used in the Amcrest NVR. While it would be easy enough to remove the screws again from the top and remove the 2 screws holding in the little alarm board I would have to take out all the wires put into the back to do so. Seeing the Push Button style is a PITA to get the wires into unless I used just straight single strand wires and I use Copper solid twisted pairs it is a pain to get them in the connecters lol..

Don't let size fool us, If you think about it there are some High current relays in cars/trucks designed to run the starter motor and blower motors so while the relays in the Amcrest NVRs are Micro in size my guess is they were built with quality materials.

[katienelson71753]

This is from my manual.

[katienelson71753]

I understand the concepts of what you're thinking and saying but question both of our logic on this in regards to using the negative wiring to alarm block and whether it's really making anything safer? (Unless someone can show me reason not to though I'm going to continue using mine this way.)

Basic electronic fundamentals: Positive electrons are attracted to negative electrons. Electricity follows the least path of resistance. Current is the rate of the flow of electrons. It's measured in amperes, which are also called amps.

Open & Closed circcuit:

[katienelson71753]

reading: https://ipcamtalk.com/threads/alarm-out ... ing.71447/

[katienelson71753]

Removed the pluggable block for NO1 C1 GND 1 2 GND
and tested on GND with my multitester (-) lead and (+) lead to P
It is confirmed without anything else hooked up 12v+

When I put my (-) lead onto CTRL with my (+) lead on P and enabled Alarm 2 (Manual) I got no voltage on the meter.